What does takeover by sportswear firm mean for traditional shoemaker?

Traditional shoemaker Grenson has been bought by international sportswear firm Castore. But what does the move mean for one of the most famous names in a county famed for its footwear heritage?

For 160 years it has been making shoes and boots that have been worn by soldiers in both world wars, celebrities – and even Doctor Who.

The firm that became Grenson began in 1866 when William Green started making shoes in a loft above a corn merchant in Rushden, Northamptonshire.

Now it has been bought by Castore, which makes kits for teams including Everton FC and England Rugby.

Castore says the move is "a significant opportunity to support" the company moving forward "while protecting the qualities that make it so special".

Former owner Tim Little says he sold the firm so a "new chapter" could begin.

"I feel I'm passing on this amazing old brand and company to somebody who can really take it on and build it and grow it for the future," says Little, who will remain as Grenson's chief operating officer.

Little, who owned the company from 2010, believes that despite Castore being known for sportwear and Grenson for handmade footwear, no immediate changes are planned.

"It's about growing it and Castore being able to help us grow as a business in ways that we couldn't do ourselves as a small independent company," he says.

Northamptonshire has a long history of boot and shoemaking, dating back to the mid-19th Century.

Nearby cattle markets provided leather and the county's central location made it ideal for trade.

Grenson moved into its first "state-of-the art factory" in 1895, on the corner of Queen Street and Cromwell Road, and stayed there for 118 years before relocating in 2013 to what it described as a more modern and efficient site.

Famed for its Goodyear-welted footwear, the company introduced the very first machine-welted shoes to Great Britain in 1895 and has since evolved beyond traditional brogues, boots and loafers, introducing trainers and collaborations with leading designers and celebrities.

Little says smart shoes remain "the core of the brand" and account for most sales.

"But now we also make other styles such as sneakers and sandals, as the trends have moved more towards casual dressing," he saiys

It sells all over the world but its largest markets are the UK and the USA, followed by Germany, France and Japan.

Generations of local people have worked for Grenson.

Sarah Tully started with the company at 17. Now 53, she is still there.

"I finished school, then I carried on in the sixth form to do a business studies course and the UK sales job in Grenson came up through the school, so I applied for it, got the job, loved it," she says.

After leaving to have a child, she returned in 2011 and is now in the closing room, where the uppers of the shoes are finalised.

"It's hard work but enjoyable," she says.

"It's such a reward when you see the result on the final shoe."

The child she left to have, Tom Norton, 31, is now the firm's warehouse manager.

"It's a bit of a family affair," he says.

"My great-grandmother worked here, my nan worked here and now my mum works here.

"No matter what position you are, whether it be the CEO down to the cleaners, it feels like no one's just a number, everyone is somebody."

So what does the future hold for Tully, Norton and the firm's 30 other employees?

"Since 2020 there have been seismic changes to the world of fashion retailing and manufacturing," says Little, citing Covid-19 and the wars in Ukraine and Iran, which affected energy costs, plus tariffs and Brexit.

He says the sale was to "keep it alive, grow it for the future, for the next 160 years".

"The [retail] world is changing enormously," he says, and believes the bigger group can "navigate those kinds of waters much better than us" as they have teams who manage shipping, logistics and warehousing, plus overseas distribution centres and legal departments.

He says that a bigger company being able to deal with global markets is the "kind of winning formula" a small company needs to move forward.

Co-founder and chief executive of Castore, Tom Beahon, says Grenson is an "iconic British brand with extraordinary heritage, craftsmanship and authenticity".

"This investment is a commitment to long-term stewardship, investing behind strong fundamentals and helping distinctive British brands reach more customers around the world," he adds.

Ian Cartwright, chief executive officer of the British Footwear Association, calls the deal "a massive vote of confidence in the UK footwear industry".

He says the Northamptonshire shoe industry is "revered around the world" with its "amazing heritage", skills and craftsmanship passed down from generation to generation.

"I think that UK footwear manufacturing is the envy of the world and has got international prestige," he says.

"For a very fast-growing British success story like Castore to buy a 160-year-old brand like Grenson, and to invest in the heritage, the craftsmanship and the international potential of that brand I see as something good for the industry."

He thinks Castore can bring international reach, digital skills and e-commerce experience.

"UK manufacturers want to reach a wider audience and someone with Castore's background and their international reach will give Grenson that ability," he says.

"For me, it's about what this deal enables next, and you would hope that there's investment in skills and talent, which is the lifeblood of those manufacturers."

He says one of the biggest concerns of UK footwear manufacturers is where future skills and talent are coming from, and they want government investment in vocational training.

The Department for Business, Innovation, Science and Trade says the UK is "lucky to have a long-standing global heritage when it comes to footwear".

"We engage closely with the sector to understand any challenges they face and to explore potential solutions, including on skills and training," a spokesman adds.

Little, meanwhile, says the future is looking bright for Grenson.

"What we do is we make beautiful shoes... we make shoes in the way we've been making them for 160 years, so let's focus on that and do that really well."

Additional reporting by Katy Prickett

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